To be quite frank, it amazes me that a brand-name and tokenistic space for a meagre loadout automatically adds so much value to a simple product such as a Peddle Go Kart. 

So I found this in a skip and I proceeded to "Pimp" that ride. 

Okay, so at the thrift store I saw a box of nerf guns for $20 all together.  A Vulcan EBF-25, Recon CS-6, and one that just says Dart Tag on it but when I looked online it appears to be a Speedload 6.  All of these are complete and seem to work.  The few rounds in the box were in bad shape and I have no idea if they are even the proper rounds.  there are some pink ones with round black heads, red ones with red heads in a six pointed star shape, and pink ones with suction cups on top.  I know nothing about names of the bullets and which ones I should buy for which gun the next time I go to Walmart.  I want avoid jamming as much as possible.

Also, on the recon, I don't really understand how this flip-up sight works.  I know it is just me being dumb, but I don't get what this little round bit that slides up and down the sight is used for at all.

I don't know anything about modding or if I should even mod these in any way.  Can any of these be used with suction cup bullets so my 6 year old nephew can stick shots to walls?  He likes that.  The more round tip ones would be more for me and my friends.  I am tired of being stuck with his spare gun with the little bee on the logo.

I am making this topic to honor the brave first who pioneered modding when I was but a wee infant, so very long ago... Thank you to all the Admins who have been nerfing since the 2000s. So, this topic is about if you can give me dates and a backstory of when a new "First" was achieved. So if you could tell me when the first coupler mod was done, or when someone first made canted flywheels, this post is about when and where they happened. Thanks

-Montymarks

Hey all! Yes, I'm a new face on these forums...please don't shoot me unless it's with a Nerf gun.  I'm looking into filming Nerf wars on a regular basis for YouTube (and no, I'm not advertising myself here - if I were I'd be posting links to my channel, which I won't here because I don't have Nerf-related content yet), mainly because there's a significant Nerf presence in my hometown of Rochester, NY, or at least significant enough to hold regular Nerf events. So yeah, I guess you could say I'm the "Cameraman" stereotype from Coop772's videos.

Although I'm a first timer in this regard, I want to both give advice and ask for advice. Before you ask, yes I did search these forums for topics on filming Nerf wars, and while I did find one, it was a few months old and I didn't want to risk the wrath of the mods for performing forum necromancy. And you're probably wondering what advice a first timer could give? Well, read on...

I want to give advice on how to achieve that good balance between low-budget and high-quality. I know having yet to film a Nerf battle I might not be the best qualified, but I have done some research on this and plan on running such a setup to my first Nerf war that I film. First off, Nerf does sell - or at least used to sell - a rail mount that can fit smartphones or cameras that are the size of an iPhone 4 or 5. One such place to get the attachment is Newegg; I'd post a direct buy link but it's ridiculously long. Just search "Nerf N-Strike Elite Battle App Tactical Rail Mount Accessory" on Newegg and you should find one. Most people on here probably knew this, but I'm bringing it up for reasons I'll list below.

Now why a rail mount camera instead of a GoPro head mounted camera? Well, a couple reasons:

• You might not always want to wear a head mount. They can slip off and/or feel uncomfortable.
• You can get an iPod Touch 5th generation to act as the "camera" (just be sure to buy the version that actually has a camera) for redonk cheap off of eBay or similar. I got one for less than $120 (not including shipping) recently for this purpose and it records in 1080p just fine - note that this is for less money than I can get a brand new quality digital camera.
• Shaky camera from being on a rail mount can be edited out in post if you have the right software.

Now this is the part where I want to ask advice...

I hope this doesn't sound like a silly question, but...how would one make a Nerf war video watchable and popular? Obviously editing is one key aspect...maybe applying some effects or whatnot...but along what lines should I apply editing and effects? I want to avoid the Velveeta Factor as much as possible while still having things interesting. Again, I hope it's not a silly question.

Please don't chase me with torches and pitchforks off the forums...I did read the rules and I'm trying my best to follow them.

I would like to hear some suggestions for some Nerf Blasters that fit the role of a "Beauty" or a "Beast". A little exposition is in order in order to clarify the analogy being made and the context of me asking.

I recently have renewed the Nerf Club at A.S.M.S.A. and became the President/Doyen/Master/Whatever of it. So for the first meeting I would like to educate these Nerf noobs on the fact that pretty blasters aren't always the best one to pick. For example: during the club fair earlier today, I had a Vulcan EBF laying as a display item on the table. Everyone who had an above average interest (in context of the school's average interest) seemed to drool over it. Needless to say, I held back from saying it was a C-list blaster as to not deter them from signing up. 

Now for the analogy: Beauties would be something like the Vulcan. They look pretty/awesome/rad/killer/overpowered/whatever but don't tend to measure up on the field. Beasts would be something like the Pyragon or Titan. They perform awesome/rad/killer/overpowered/whatever on the field.

I plan on making a PowerPoint slideshow game to quiz the members on which blaster is more powerful than the other displayed. All I need is for you guys to list some blasters that fit the bill of each description.

I just bought a pre-owned Deploy CS-6. When I was firing it, the first bullet would shoot but would jam and tear the 2nd one every single time. Im Fairly new to Nerfing but the little plastic piece that pulls in when prime the handle is too slow so when my dart goes in ready fire position it get smash by that little plast restricter. Please HELP!

So today, I found a 3 year old Interceptor 052 helicopter in my basement. I opened it up to find (Drumroll please) a lipo powering 2 180 size motors in it. I'm tempted to gut it, but I think it's lipo needs a recharge. Now I am not a flywheel freak (yeah thats right), so I need help and advice on if I should gut it and take the chance that it was the lipo that just needed recharging, or should I recharge the lipo and risk lighting my house on fire (if I get the charger wrong). Please help

-Montymarks

And for your next dose of quality cancer content, I stuck my dick in a DartZone Magnum.
I can't justify any other purchases besides food because I am broke, but I fucking hate mags and this looked like a godsend savior because big high cap turret and decent FPS out of box. (80ish, 10 above standard elite of 70)

So the DartZone Magnum, Target Exclusive blaster. Check if your store has it stock, 

UP NEXT : Make your Magnum pump action (VGM)

Internals guide

(text below photos will explain the photo)

Less than 10 minutes after opening it out of box I gutted it. I'll go over the internals. Yes the drum retaining pin is missing in the photo, that will come up next,

Retaining pin. First thing to do is sand the nubs down a bit so you can still try and force it out to remove the drum for storage. Mine's a bit janky, but I sanded the nubs a bit down and pushed them in. You have to fiddle with it a bit. 

So here's most of the important stuff. 
There is a kinda plunger tube carrier that slides back and forth, and has nubs that are connected to the slide. 


This is the actual trigger and plunger. The slam fire mech is IN the plunger rod, which is very unique and pretty cool. The catch is in the rod, but if you hold the trigger down it activates at catch in the slide that releases when at full compression. 
Don't forget that weird piece on the slide, it's kinda important.


Basically don't touch the rear sight piece or anything to the left of it, there's no reason to.

Plunger rod is PRE padded beacuse no AR, and has some really weird O ring, like a sillicone one. No reason to touch it or take it out TBH, unless you're replacing the O ring. 

There is a screw on this side of the shell,  that connects to the carrier for the plunger tube. 

Plunger tube size is tiny, nerf dart for comparison


Ratcheting mech 
when pulled back, it goes up and enters goove in the the drum and locks until pushed forward. That releases the mech and makes it skip to go back down and allows you to rotate the drum again. 

Overall, this blaster is pretty cool. I'm afraid of putting a larger spring in because it may break, and it has nothing to remove. Honestly the whole point of dissasembly would probably be for my VGM guide, which will be done soon. 
Also, I'd remove the stock. Fuck that shit lol, or at least bolt it in. 
Overall a decent blaster, I'd check out NerfMercs Podcast talking about Dartzone stuff, it's pretty sub-optimal. They explain some of my opinons of why drums are good, and positives of the Magnum

However there are some downfalls to the Magnum. First, tiny plunger tube. It has a fragile plunger rod, really can't do anything, I guess they were cutting down costs because this is retailing currently for 20 USD, insanely cheap. However they could sav more money removing that stupid flimsy arm brace. It doesn't work and honestly is very annoying, I'd just remove it, or make into a stock. Putting a stock on this thing is a hassle though. Also, not much to really do to increase FPS. 
I'll war test this shit sunday, at the very least it's great for an all stock war AND don't need mags. Loading 40 darts at first seems like a lot, but that's a little more than 2 18 stick mags AND you get to always top off. 

Oh yea, prime is kinda derpy because it has a 2 stage pull, so it has some reisistance and stuff near the end which is what is cycling the drum. Feels weird but shouldn't affect performance

So, after looking through every mod I could ever find on Youtube, I came across these videos of small children spray painting nerf guns all black, no clear coat, no orange, no detail, just black, and then posting Tutorials on how to do it. This is so depressing to realise that these kids can get as much, if not more, fame than someone who actually contributes to the nerf community. I am NOT trying to send hate, but just giving tips to n00bs. Example:

On YT I found a video of a 8 year old giving a tutorial on how to paint a nerf gun. He failed, but by his standards, he beat some of the best cosmetics on NH. He took the blaster and put in on his table. Mistake #1. Always paint on cardboard, or at least newspaper. Mistake #2/3/4. He didn't take it appart. He took out the "Clip" (I am now officially triggered. It's a mag) and set them on the table outside. He then proceeded to take out a can of black spray paint and left no orange tip or trigger. For safety and function of the blaster, we modders, leave the tip orange. That way you don't get shot by a cop, and as I live near Detroit, I prefer to stay alive. Mistake #5. He said that he liked how it turned out, and some other gibberish that he stole from a Drac video, and walked to the camera and turned it off.

Tip #1

If you are going to make actual modders look bad, at least don't brag and post it to Youtube

Tip #2

Leave moving parts and tips orange

Tip #3

Don't clickbait your title. "Custom Painted Nerf Gun" is clickbait. And yes, this is a lot like rule 1

I will post more of these tips and tricks soon

-Montymarks

Having entered university at the start of the year, I've given a lot of thought to starting a Nerf club on campus. The downside is that I've no experience in the area. Getting to the point of the post here, and talking to the older community members, how did you originally start playing in your areas, and develop into an organised society.

As a followup, how would you recommend I start a club on my campus? There are about 4000 students.

Take one suitable Vulcan.

Take one Longstrike Barrel.

Stuff the Longstrike Barrel into the muzzle of the Vulcan. 

More tactical rail fun than you can shake a stick at. 

To be quite frank, it amazes me that a brand-name and tokenistic space for a meagre loadout automatically adds so much value to a simple product such as a Peddle Go Kart. 

So I found this in a skip and I proceeded to "Pimp" that ride. 

BuzzBee Reaper. Fucking bitch to open but a flat head can get the orange piece off the front. 
More Aesthetic and a Kriss Vector sort of vibe from it. 
If anything, it should keep up the sort of hype BuzzBee had from the Sentinel with it's power and ease of use.
I'll quit wasting your time, onto the review and internals.

As always, descriptions of the photo will be BELOW the photo.
3 shots into owning this, and I'm already disassembling it lol


Screws on the right side of the shell. Use a flathead to pry off the nozzle by going under. Most of the adhesive on my model is on the left side of the blaster. 


and it's off. This is a bit annoying, and in reassembly I'm going to tap it so it's held in place with a screw or 


Don't leave the nozzle off, or a very important pin will fall out. That pin is essential for the function of the blaster, and a bit finicky. Be very fucking careful removing the shell halfs from another. 

BuzzBee and their retention plates. It's easy to remove with a flat head to pry off the grip plates and expose a hidden screw.

Internals. Again, be really careful lifting the shell up and apart because there's a lock pin up front that is like a dart tooth but opens on trigger pull. This is so the dart seats in the barrel. A smaller version compared to the Sentinels dart tooth and displayed on the Champion and BuzzBee M16. The internals are nearly identical to the Champions. 

Up close of rear near the trigger group. A bit hard to see but similar to the rest of the Ultra Tek springer blasters.

Up close of the front. Trigger pulled, so the "dart tooth: is down. Be careful disassembling because some of the pieces are finicky and loose. Don't fuck with this if you don't have to


This piece is finicky as fuck. I said don't take it out, now it's a hassle to put it in.  

spring mount has a larger flared plate, seems like it can accommodate a larger spring. Maybe easier to put a larger spring on? Didn't test.


lockbox. Just a trigger lock, can't disassemble but easily removable or reinstalled. Easy to remove and put back, which is cool and nice. If you want to remove it, up to you but I took it out just for de-priming reasons. 

Comparisons to BuzzBee Sentinel Parts 

Spoiler

I had a sentinel opened laying around, may as well compare for those who are interested.

Sentinel plunger rod on the left and buzzbee one on the left. They are not interchangeable, and the padding is not stock. It's a modded sentinel plunger head. I would pad the other plunger head too, just for safety

Sentinel spring on left, Reaper spring on right. Reaper spring is definitely weaker, or feels. Sentinel spring fits in the reaper, and vice versa. 

Sentinel plunger tube on the bottom and the Reaper plunger tube on top. The reaper is a little shorter on plunger tube, but less deadspace? AR unit looks a little big. I heard removing the air restrictor is very little increase, so I didn't do it because I'm #lazyasfuck. 


Sentinel plunger on the right, Reaper plunger on the left. shorter by just a bit. I bet you could remove the AR the same as the sentinel however, 

primed and ready to get triggered. I re assembled my reaper in this format to leave the pin in position because it's finicky. 

Potential?

Spoiler

Blaster still functions with out slide. Top charging handle tactics! 
Sorry for cancer blurr

Grip taped like FUCK for extreme tactics and accenting purposes, with a mechanix glove for extra grip to hold onto all these operator tactics. Don't tell me you didn't cum looking at this, you know you did.  


Demonstrated with a high capacity assault magazine  and duct tape holding the front nozzle on. Worked at a war, 


​A successor to the BuzzBee Champion and competitor to retaliator and other spring powered pistol mag fed blasters.
Pistol grip is comfy, somethingsomething stereotypical bobo/coop/drac thing to comment on.

-Decent power, but first complaint, mag well sux.

-A lot harder to load into, I wish it was a little more flared but it's a little finicky to deal with. Obviously, drums don't work with this because mag sidewalls are can't accommodate that. You CAN hack out some parts of the reaper so you could, but like, why. You may as well should've got a champion if you wanted to do that because it's really similar. 

-Another thing is the mag release, 3/10 derp release, can't even use it as a paddle. However I might do a side release or something. A transitional reload is kinda hard BUT you can do a gross motor skill reload. (I done it lol) 

Pretty sub-optimal, looks cool as fuck without the mag. 

I could see a cosplay use for cheap vector and just bolting shit to it and covering exposed magwell.

I'm thinking about adding a little nylon as a bolt/charging handle on the slide like a racegun.

I'm use PVC fitting on the front to make it pump action. Also a stock probably on the back would be doable, I would do it just so other people can replicate it. However that defeats the point of the reaper because close quarter extreme tight tactics, and I would use my sentinel, but I have a really close tight quarter war which is what I picked this up for. 
 

If you really like the aesthetic you should pick one up but IMO the champion is more practical and better because it adapts all mags, has a less derpy mag release and I think cheaper. Also you could get a holster for it but ehh.
Reaper definitely looks cooler, which is what I'm going for because really close quarter pistol tactics. It has good power and I used it stock at NYCNO for a round with DX, I definitely enjoyed it, along with all the other people who decided to borrow it. Not a bad pickup, and something glorious from BuzzBee as always. 


 

My thoughts in the link below:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3Bn-Hrh_-U9gEsieL5aQmA

My own very serious tests aside, I'm not sure this'll contribute much aside from being a nice blaster to paint and chop up to get bits from...

Pretty self-explanitory. I prefer to "run three-gun", to use a real steel term- I prefer to use the Hyperfire, with a Stryfe as a secondary and a Strongarm as a tertiary.